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Gyeongju, a History Lesson

The six hour bus ride from Sokcho down to Gyeongju, the capital city of the ancient kingdom of Silla, was well worth it. Transportation is quite expensive in Korea (this ride cost me $30), but it is easy, comfortable, and efficient.

Although it was raining when I arrived, I still opted to don my poncho and walk the half hour to the hostel I'd been recommended. I always enjoy walking as soon as I arrive in a new place (actually, I enjoy walking all the time) in order to get acquainted with my surroundings. I'm obsessed with maps and I'm constantly (practically unconsciously) orienting myself on the globe. It's a rare occasion I don't know which way north is, which I thought was normal, because my immediate family is the same way (must be the aviator in me, thanks dad!) but whenever I ask someone about directions and say something like "Is the trail head east of the temple?," one out of ten people will say yes or no and the other nine will give me the stink eye and respond with something along the lines of "I have no clue (ya weirdo)." But I digress...

I found my cozy hostel, booked three nights on account of the warmth and charm, and went out for my first Korean barbecue experience with a girl from Hong Kong and a guy from Korea who, in the end, treated the two of us to the amazing dinner! Too bad I didn't have my camera on me; the meal was beautiful. A full plate of thin cut beef to grill ourselves, a pile of lettuce to wrap it in, and an array of sides including rice, kimchee, spinach, garlic, mixed vegetables, marinated leaves of some type, and other things covered the table. We sat barefoot on the floor and enjoyed each others company while eating with our hands. I love Korean food.

The next morning I took the bus to one of the most famous and important temples in Korea: Bulguksa, as well the Seokgorum Grotto just up the hill from it. The place was packed with several groups of school children. It reminded me of going on field trips as a small child to places like "Old World Wisconsin." My how the world is different, yet so much the same.

I chose to hike up to the Grotto first, strolling beside the well behaved kids and the colorful lanterns.

The stone Buddha inside the Grotto, which I was not allowed to photograph, is said to exemplify one of the best Buddha sculptures in the world. It was completed in 774 and is one of the most visited destinations in South Korea.

A Buddhist monk chants and drums at a small temple near the Grotto.

I saw there was a trail leading to the peak, something I could hardly pass up, so I headed up the mountain to enjoy the view from the top. I went from being surrounded by hundreds if not thousands of school children and other tourists to being completely alone within a matter of minutes.

I half-jogged back down the little mountain until I reached the actual Bulguksa Temple complex.

Construction of the temple began in 751 and was completed in 774. Since then, however, many restorations have been done. The Bulguksa is the head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, contains seven of the countries National treasures (statues, pagodas, bridges) and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Upon returning to the city, I grabbed a bit of lunch in the market (a 'gimbap,' which is veggies, egg, and rice rolled into a sheet of seaweed and it's delish) then visited the burial mounds.

Not your average tombs, eh? These burial sites are resting grounds for Kings, Queens, and other royalty and rulers of ancient Korea.

The area of central Gyeongju is full of parks, trees, flower fields, and historical sites. It is a peaceful, cultural, and very interesting part of the country.

Cheomseongdae, the oldest surviving observatory in East Asia. Very cool.

That evening, I went for a walk to find the Anapji Pond, which I heard was best viewed at night. I saw some water, so I turned in off the road only to realize I was at the lotus pond (out of lotus season, hence no lotus plants). Things always seem to work out for me though, because I was able to snap this photo of a beautiful sunset behind a tiny pavilion reflecting in a pond so still it looked like glass.

I eventually found my way to the actual Anapji Pond, part of another nearby palace complex.

I was thankful for a day without rain, because the following day, we weren't so lucky. It just so happened to be Sunday, however, and every Sunday there is a free tour in English of Mount Namsan, which is basically a giant outdoor museum.

Our extremely knowledgable tour guide "Cookie" led us up the mountain, stopping at various view points, explaining a great deal of history and culture to her poncho clad tourists.

Some of the smaller burial tombs had names inscribed, others had nothing.

Mysterious forest. I liked it.

Several of the ancient statues were broken or marred, but each still carried their own story.

One of my favorites was this giant relief sculpture of Buddha looking out over the valley.

Our little group made it to the peak, wet but happy!

Two of my friends from the hostel, Juyeong and Fanny, and I decided to continue on over another section of the mountain after the tour ended. Glad we did, because the views only got better.

We changed into dry clothes when we got back, then I enjoyed my last meal in Gyeongju with them while we chatted about travel and places we'd love to visit, a conversation that never gets old. :)

Kristina Bair
Current Location: Perth, Australia

I set out on an adventure of living life to the fullest through the things I love: travel, diving, hiking, wellness, culture exchange, and overall happiness (and some debauchery, in moderation of course).

 

I live by three general rules:

   1. Stay safe

   2. Have fun.

   3. Be kind.

 

Life dealt me a damn good hand and I'm all in, all day.

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