Finding Solitude in Sagada

One of the main reasons I got a one month visa extension in the Philippines was because I hadn't seen the Cordilleras Range in the northern part of Luzon yet. When meeting other travels and getting recommendations on where to go next (a hundred times more useful than any guidebook) the typical top choices are Palawan (been there, done that, can't wait to go back) and the area around Sagada.

Sagada is a quaint town situated in a valley deep in the mountains. From Rosario, where I did my Work Away, I took a van to the city of Baguio and stuck around for a day to see what the "Summer Capital" of the Philippines had to offer.

For starters, I had fresh mountain air and a nice view.

There were plenty of elderly women dressed in traditional garb that looked really sweet right up to the point when they groped me until I took a photo with them, followed shortly by demanding coins...

This was an interesting work of art which had no title or caption, but I liked it because, to me, it represented teamwork between cultures. If you'll observe closely, each man is dressed very differently.

I really felt like some of these horses were actually supposed to be unicorns.

This is the president's getaway home, nestled among the pine trees.

Satisfied with my day of exploring Baguio, I hopped on a bus headed for Sagada. Six hours of winding through the steep mountains later, I arrived, found a cheap, cozy little place to crash, and set out to wander the area.

My personal $5/night room.

A short walk from town took me to Sagada's old Church,

followed by a stroll through the cemetery,

and finally down the hill to the hanging coffins. These are exclusively for the "elders" which actually has nothing to do with age- anyone who is a grandfather is an "elder." The natives say the souls can escape easier if the coffins are hanging rather than buried. This method is not practiced so much anymore, but there have been bodies placed here as recently as the last five years.

Although Sagada has its fair share of visitors, the town is very quiet. I did all of my wandering solo for the first two days, which was quite nice. Meeting new people and exploring together is wonderful, but every now and then it's refreshing to set off alone, influenced only by my own intuition, carving my own path. One particular afternoon I spotted a trail leading off the road, so I took it and stumbled upon an enormous pottery barn and also a brewery!

I happily sampled their honey beer and chatted up the young, outgoing woman working there while I rested my feet, then set off again to find something else.

Many paths lead you through the rice terraces or farm fields before emerging back onto a trail or road again.

Just try to keep your balance or you'll get wet!

I ended up at the local swimming hole, which doubles as a laundry washing area and triples as a shower.

I got lost a few times on my way home, but later that evening I met a group to do a cave tour with the next day. The caves are the town's main attraction and I was pleased to find some people who were keen to do the four hour cave-connection tour as opposed to the shorter options. (It would have cost me twice as much if I didn't find a group.)

The next morning, after a fruit and homemade yogurt breakfast, the six of us met our guide at the tourist office and walked 30 minutes down to the Lumiang Cave entrance.

There, the sign read:

These caves are Kabunyan's gift to Sagadians

and all lovers of beauty and nature.

Remember these wonders are millions of years old.

Man was born only yesterday.

We therefore have no right to destroy these legacies.

Only our duty to protect and preserve them.

There are also coffins found at the cave entrance, although many have fallen and bones have scattered due to earthquakes, animals, and probably some human tampering.

Our excellent guide led us by lamplight as we descended down into the dark depths of the damp, echoing cave. We took our time, barefoot, and helped each other over the sometimes slick rock formations of the beautiful and immense tunnel through the earth.

American, French, three Germans, a Spanish, and a true Sagadian take a little rest before "crossing over" to the next cave, Sumaging, by hopping over a crack in the ground.

This tour is certainly not for the claustrophobic, faint of heart, or fearful of heights. We had to slip through small holes, shimmy down narrow cracks, climb up and down ropes, and balance across slender walkways. Our guide would tell us exactly how to maneuver some of the more sketchy areas. "Right foot here, right hand here, left foot here, then up, up, got it." At one point he simply said "give me your hand" and, one-by-one, swung each of us through mid-air around a bend to a smooth landing before hopping swiftly around it himself, lantern in one hand and all. He was seriously strong.

The way water carves it's way through the earth never, ever ceases to amaze me.

Have I ever mentioned how much I adore caves?

I love them so much.

This photo makes the cave appear quite a bit brighter than it actually was, but cool, right?!

We knew we were reaching the end as the world around us started to brighten. The cave-connection tour was, hands down, the highlight of my three peaceful days in Sagada.

Up in this region, you can't walk far without getting a lovely view of some rice terraces.

The German girls and I stopped for a nice view of the town on our way up the sunset viewpoint (we ended up hitching a free ride up, then not seeing the sunset due to heavy clouds, then getting a free ride back- not bad). I hit the sack early after an amazing but tiring day.

On my last morning at this beautiful place I woke up early to hike to the sunrise viewpoint. There are buses available too, but what fun is that? ;)

I left my hostel at about 4:15 am and arrived at the location, still pitch black, but under a sky dotted with bright stars at about 5:15. I found myself a little nook nestled in front of a big rock, got comfortable, and lost myself in my own thoughts until I started to see the golden sliver of sunlight peek up over the mountaintops.

Another day to be grateful for.

Funny thing is, I found my little spot far enough to the side that I didn't even realize until I stood up that the hill was littered with people!

I'm glad I was able to find a peaceful spot to enjoy the glorious beginning of a new day...

without my view being obscured by selfie sticks.

I headed back to town with a smile on my face and packed up. Sagada is a charm. Just when I thought my morning couldn't get any better, I made my way to Banaue, a town three hours away, riding on the top of a jeepney! More on that in the next post. :)